Pre-Trip Intro
In 2012, I decided to take off on an Australian adventure for an indefinite amount of time. There was too much of the world to see and I wanted to get started on it. Around late summer/fall of that year, I applied for my working-holiday visa (basically the easiest process of all time) and had it approved in one working day, booked my flights, and organized accommodation for the holidays. I also booked an intro week program called UltimateOz, because I was new to this backpacking thing and the idea of just showing up without a plan left me with visions of being alone and friendless. I am glad I did it and it was a great week, but it was also expensive and is definitely not necessary if you don't want to waste the funds.
I of course had fears leading up to the trip. What if something happened at home while I was away? What if I didn't make friends? What if I got bitten by a funnel web spider and died a painful death on the other side of the world? None of these things came to be, but they seemed like real possibilities. This can be proven by my extensive search history on funnel web spiders. (They live in people's GARDENS!)
I had saved about $6000 over the past year in the US at my office job, and I told my boss in October that I'd be leaving in a little over a month since he worked out of state and I wouldn't be seeing him again beforehand. It turns out I shouldn't have been nervous about it. I didn't even have to tell him it was to travel- he immediately asked, "Where you are going?" and wasn't at all surprised when I said Australia. Then he told me he was happy for me and gave me a hug before he left.
That money was the total of what I had to bring with me to the country as I had already paid for the flights and hostels I'd booked. However, money goes fast if you aren't careful, and you learn to budget quickly. After a few months on the road, even buying drinks at a bar seems like a wildly reckless financial decision. You learn to cook your own food at your hostel and limit your drink intake to "goon", the slang term for Aussie boxed wine (although calling it wine is a stretch). At $12 for a box that'll last you three full nights of intoxication, you'll even start to grow fond of it and convince yourself that Fruity Lexia (universally agreed to be the most tolerable flavor) isn't so bad really.
I was very sad to leave home and had an awesome goodbye house party with tons of my friends. I also had to give away my two pet snakes (I kept a third that my mom was supposed to watch but it escaped- twice). Saying goodbye to my cat was the hardest part though. Tiger was the love of my life. There were tears. Not from him- although he'd tolerate me picking him up because he loved me, he gave me a dirty look when I hugged him for too long and pushed me away. I still miss that beautiful cat.
Day of Arrival
I had a 5 hour flight to LAX on Wednesday, spent an hour in the United club lounge there thanks to a pass I had, caught the next 13 hour flight to Auckland, then one last flight to Sydney. I landed at about 10:30 AM on December 7th, 2012, a Friday. An entire Thursday just disappeared from my life.
I caught a shuttle to my first hostel, WakeUp, in the corporate area of the city near Chinatown.
I remember being on the bus looking at trees lining the sidewalks and having to continuously remind myself that I was actually in Australia. I had arrived right into summertime and it was surreal.
Now I know that a few people have this very mistaken idea that hostels are these dingy, shady sex dens frequently targeted by serial killers, and I just want to dispel that myth (minus the sex part). The movie Hostel was in no way an accurate representation of actual hostels. Hostels are just budget hotels with both dorms and private rooms, common areas where travelers hang out together, kitchens, and usually some sort of defining feature or theme. In fact, a lot of hostels are far more fun and interesting than hotels.
WakeUp was a huge hostel with seven stories, and I was staying in a 10-bed dorm. Each floor had its own color and continent theme. The best part of it though was the kickass bar in the basement, SideBar, which was my favorite place to drink in Sydney.
Unfortunately though, Sydney is not my favorite city. Aside from Circular Quay where the Opera House and bridge are and a few other areas, it felt like a very large, generic city to me. Most of the blocks look the same and it just lacked character. It was, however, the right place to start my trip. The most common starting point for backpackers seems to be Sydney, so most of the people I met at the start of my trip, including my roommates that first day, had also just started their own travels. Everyone was new to the experience.
After checking into my room, showering, and meeting my first friends of the trip, I went to use the free wifi at McDonald's to let everyone know I was safe. The only thing McDonald's is good for is the free wifi and staff who generally don't care if you're sitting there using it. I had my first dinner at a tiny Thai place with an open-air front looking out at the street, then I went back to the hostel and wasn't able to stay awake past 8:00 despite my best efforts.
I spent the next two days getting settled in. I went food shopping and to the liquor store for the first time which is where I almost had my first culture shock related heart attack. Six packs were $17!! A bottle of Jack was $47!! This is why their wages are high, how else could anyone afford to live like that?! I also had my first introduction to goon and my first night out, but I would quickly learn that large groups of young 20 something British guys- the ones who would annoyingly refer to themselves as "the lads"- are total dickheads. Not all of them, just the vast majority.
I only met one young Australian in the first couple weeks and was shocked to actually meet someone who was from the country.
UltimateOz Week
Day 1- City Tour
I started my UltimateOz program on Monday. Everyone in the program was staying at the same hostel, so we all met in the lobby and after introductions, went for a city walk. I had been holding off on exploring because I knew we'd be doing it with the group.
Our first stop was lunch at Darling Harbour (the Aussies unfortunately adopted the unnecessary use of the letter U from the Brits). This is another decent area of Sydney with lots of bars and restaurants.
We headed to the UltimateOz Headquarters next where we were given intro packets with an itinerary for the week, coupons for some free things, and membership to the Travelers at Work jobsite (where I would later actually find a job, so I'm thankful for that).
The Botanic Gardens were next, and I really enjoyed those. There were some strange sorts of trees that I hadn't ever seen before, cool rock formations, and it felt like escaping from the city for a minute.
Coming towards the other side of the gardens, you get your first look at the iconic Opera House.
I liked it although I never saw the inside, but I actually liked the Harbour Bridge across from it about equally.
Together they make an awesome skyline. I don't think either would be as impressive without the other. After walking past Circular Quay and back towards the headquarters, a bunch of us stopped at Commonwealth Bank to get our accounts opened. I also got a cheap phone, but it was simple and I liked it. I mean, it wasn't a flip phone, but it sufficed.
Circular Quay
We all met up at Sidebar that night, ate pizza, played Never Have I Ever, and had a blast on the dance floor. It's that easy to make friends.
Day 2- Harbor Cruise
After an early morning meeting about all of the boring things- resumes, work, etc- as well as some tips about what seasons are best to travel which areas of Oz and a promotion for Surf Camp (between my fear of the ocean and complete lack of coordination, I decided to pass), we picked up some alcohol and boarded a boat at Darling Harbour for our day out on the water.
I had been thinking that Sydney was going to be scorching hot in the summertime, but even though it was December (flipped seasons), it was pretty chilly that day. I had a tendency to try to defy the weather in the first few weeks by going out in bikinis even if I should have been in a hoodie, but really I am the only one who suffered for my decisions as well as looking ridiculous surrounded by people who were dressed sensibly. I shouldn't point this out though because I still do it occasionally today.
There was a ton of space at the front of the boat, so we all sat up there drinking and enjoying Sydney from the water. We went right under the Harbour Bridge and up close to the Opera House. I was still reminding myself at this point that I was actually in Australia. It didn't seem real.
We pulled up at this spot with very blue water and scenic cliffs where we all got into our swimsuits and jumped off the top of the boat into the ocean despite the temperature. While we were having fun, they cooked us a barbeque (even veggie hot dogs for me).
We made one more swimming stop, and I actually couldn't believe it. We were able to jump off the boat into the Sydney harbor with a perfect view of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge right in front of us. I didn't even know people were allowed to swim in that area. Jumping into that water in front of the famous Sydney skyline had to be one of the coolest experiences of my life.
We spent the rest of the boat ride dancing up front and probably feeling like this is what life was meant to be.
Day 3- Off to Port Stephens
On our third day, we checked out of WakeUp and headed a couple of hours north of the city to a place called Port Stephens. Immediately upon arriving at our new hostel, Melaleuca, I was excited. I'll take the country over the city any day, and this was a hostel surrounded by nature. There were shady trees and open fields, an option of tents or cabins to sleep in, and a main cabin with a lounge area. The showers and bathrooms were in a separate building as well, so no matter where you went, you had to walk outside.
There were also a wide variety of animals on the grounds including cockatoos, chickens, and a domestic kangaroo named Josie.
I took a cabin and then we all spent time getting acquainted with the animals. The cockatoo did not like me, but I got to pet Josie the kangaroo and she was soft and adorable.
The group leaders were recruiting people for an alcohol run later on, and I volunteered. We got to rock up to the supermarket in the sweetest ride.
It felt great out on the road too with the open sides on the jeep, plus we picked up a mass amount of Domino's on the way back, so we were very popular when we returned with pizza and booze. Later that night, we all sat in the lobby playing Ring of Fire.
After the game, we ended our night with a bonfire on the nearby One Mile Beach, skinnydipping in the ocean, and laying in the sand underneath the clearest sky watching shooting stars go by literally every few minutes. It was a fantastic night.
Day 4- Sandboarding, One Mile Beach, Bush Walk
Well, I paid for my night of partying under the starry skies the next morning when we had to wake up at 7:30 to go sandboarding in the vengeful heat. I had probably not gone to bed until 3, so chances are I was still drunk in the morning.
Also, sandboarding is not as fun and easy as it looks. After every quick, breezy trip down the hill, you need to walk your ass back up, and if you think sliding and pushing your way up a mountain of sand isn't a workout, you clearly haven't done it.
Oh yeah, and my group leader, who I have a strong suspicion did not like me, decided to penalize me for being the last one to the bus (as usual) by denying me a bottle of water. I was so ridiculously dehydrated and hadn't bothered to drink any after waking up due to rushing to get to the bus, so I was about to pass out after the first time down the hill. I had to come back to the bus and take my chances asking the driver, but at least he was a merciful and kind saint who gave me a full bottle that tasted like salvation.
The sand dunes themselves were very cool, and I did enjoy boarding down, especially on my stomach.
We stopped by a beautiful beach next on protected Aboriginal land, so that meant no swimming. It was pristine and untouched though, and this is the thing about Australia- most of the beaches are largely devoid of people.
We went back to One Mile Beach later in the afternoon where we laid in the sun and the boys all played soccer. I was in the water at one point just looking at the ocean and the view and still trying to let it sink in that I was all the way across the world. I never really got over it.
We went for our first bush walk later on. Bush walk is really just an Aussie term for a hike through natural land. This area had a steel walkway with stairs leading all the way up a hill to beautiful views over this bay.
I am, however, not in shape, so I was relieved when we reached the top and even more relieved when it was over. Uphill climbs do not agree with my lungs.
We went to drink outside at the picnic tables after dinner back at the hostel, and one of the girls in the group literally shot a bird by popping a champagne bottle. We heard its agonized cry as the cork hit it and I was pretty horrified. We think it must have lived though, because it didn't hit the ground. I would like to tell myself that anyway.
We played flip cup but attracted a lot of bugs outside. We moved to the beach not long after although we had no more firewood, so we just set out lanterns.
Day 5- Dolphin Cruise
We packed our things and left Melaleuca in the morning. The activity of the day was a cruise around the waters dolphin watching, and while the boat was way nicer (there was a slide in the back!), it was significantly less fun than the first cruise. First of all, we were sharing the boat with respectable families and even children, and also, the water was very cold so I didn't want to swim. There was a boom net on the side of the boat that we were able to sit in as the water rushed by under us and that was fun for all of a few minutes until two bluebottle jellyfish got stuck in the net and we made a mad rush for the ladder. One of my friends got stung and said it was not pleasant.
On the bright side, I got to lay out and relax on the boat, and we saw plenty of dolphins.
Afterwards, it was a long ride back to Sydney.
Day 6- Coastal Beach Walk
It was the last day of UltimateOz, and it felt sad after all of the togetherness of the week. The day started with the coastal walk together from Coogee Beach to Bondi. This walk can be done anytime, and it was not the last time I made the trek.
It takes a couple hours, and this was one of those days that I insisted on wearing a bikini, because beaches!, but it was actually not warm at all. There are five beaches to pass on the walk. The path is mainly on the cliffside with great views over the water and coastal houses.
You start at Coogee, a pleasant, large-ish beach. It's probably the most popular after Bondi, although I always sort of felt like the people who post up at Coogee are a bit defensive about it to those who stay at Bondi.
The second is Clovelly which I really liked for it being different. It's smaller with the beach and water fenced in on both sides and surrounded by trees.
Bronte is third. It's pretty standard looking but has a pool next to the beach as well. What was better than the beach was that nearby on the path was the coolest graveyard I've ever seen. It was just massive coming right down the hill practically to the edge of the cliff.
Next was Tamarama, which has a large grassy area behind the beach that I appreciated.
Finally, you come to the most popular and famous of them all, Bondi Beach. It is very long and has touristy, summery sorts of shops in the town behind it. There's also a large pool on the winding path coming down, but I was under the impression you had to pay to use it. It looks attached to a posh sort of restaurant, so I never tried to go in. It does look nice in photos though.
That night was our final group activity, a party bus pub crawl. We hit up the Strike Bar by Darling Harbour which has bowling alleys in the back, Scubar which I never liked before because it's small and packed, but this time we played fun competition games so it was enjoyable, Sidebar which by this point felt like my home in Sydney, and Scruffy Murphy's, the Irish bar around the corner. In between, we crammed into the party bus and danced all night.
I spent the next day relaxing and skyping home after such a full-on week. We then had everyone left in the hostel from UltimateOz come crash in our dorm room for the night in a last big sleepover chill out session.
The rest of my last week in the city consisted of hanging out at Sidebar for pub quizzes and Christmas parties, making another trip to Bondi, booking a campervan Great Ocean Road trip with some others from the group, starting my RSA course so that I could serve alcohol if my job required, exploring the nightlife in King's Cross for the first time, saying goodbye to people as they continued on their travels, and accidentally wandering into the Sydney Westfield Tower and being absolutely overwhelmed at the sheer size of it. There were never ending corridors full of shops and more escalators and floors than I had time to explore. I also did the coastal walk once more at nighttime.
So overall, despite my negative attitude about Sydney itself, I had a very decent time there. It was the start of my backpacking adventure and a whole new world of freedom. I loved meeting people of so many nationalities (well, they were mostly English if I'm being honest) and getting the feel of a new country.
This isn't the end of my time in Sydney, but I moved to Bondi Beach that Sunday for the holidays, and that's an entirely new story.