It took a bit of planning to figure out how to fit everything I wanted to see in such a short space of time. The most trouble I had was trying to find a way to get in both the medieval town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber (pronounced like Roe-ten-burg ohb der toe-ber which I include because I was absolutely saying it wrong before I heard it out loud) and the Cinderella castle, Neuschwanstein. They could be done as day trips from Munich… but not on the same day.
Eventually, I decided to fly from Berlin to Nuremberg, pick up a rental car, drive to Rothenburg to stay overnight, and day trip down to the castle the next afternoon before dropping the car off in Munich that night. It worked and I was happy.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Rothenburg was easily and by far my favorite place I visited in Germany. It is adorable perfection, like a storybook come to life.
We picked up our rental car with Hertz (which I got for a really good rate with my travel agent discount) at the Nuremberg airport around 2 PM and drove an hour west to Rothenburg. Just driving into the town was exciting because you pass under an arch in the stone walls and come out into this beautiful village like a dream.
We found our inn pretty easily since it was right next to the famous photographed corner of the town. We stayed at the Glocke Weingut und Hotel, a quiet old building. There was a parking garage around the side that was free for us to use. The room was cute and clean.
We went to explore after settling in. Our goal was to find a place to eat dinner, but it was hard not to get distracted by all of the shop windows. There were shops with dolls, shops with sausages and pretzels, shops with swords and armor, and more, but each one was a picture perfect display.
Eventually we settled on eating at a place called Zum Schwan after checking the English menus outside restaurants as we went. Where we end up eating is usually determined by whether I am interested in any of the 2-3 vegetarian options typically available at any given place. This one was a fantastic choice! I had their special which was mixed mushrooms and these thick noodles in a bread bowl, and it was amazing. In fact, a lot of the meals I ended up having in Germany included mushrooms, and they were always incredible. I also had mulled wine and we each had an iced coffee with ice cream afterwards.
Most of the shops were closed by the time we left, but we joined the crowd in the town square, Marktplatz, at 8 PM for the night watchman tour. The guy who led it (the watchman) was really good, and he walked us around the streets telling us all about Rothenburg’s history, daily life, and how the medieval town remained preserved through time and war. He said that luckily the general had been out of town when Rothenburg was asked to surrender during WWII, and the officer acting in his place at the time had known the war was over and decided to defy orders and relinquish control, thus saving the city. Also, he told us, Rothenburg’s preservation can be attributed to just being too poor to develop post-medieval times. Thanks for my favorite German destination, poverty!
I enjoyed the tour, and it gave us a few ideas for things to see the following day when the sun was out and the shops would be open.
We got up early to make the most of the morning. We had breakfast sitting outside a café in the town square, then we went to explore.
We headed into the town hall which was basically all large, bare rooms, but you could then climb the stairs to the top. It was 220 steps to the peak of the tower including a very narrow ladder at the very end, then you come out to a panoramic view of Rothenburg. I thought it was worth the few euros.
Aside from that, we spent most of the morning in the fantastic shops. There was this awesome medieval store, Waffenkammer, with knight displays, Excalibur in a stone, liquor in old bottles that looked like potions, a basement set up like a dungeon, and plenty of fantasy merch. I finally made a dream purchase of THE one ring from Lord of the Rings on a necklace chain for only 30 euro (Lewis was super jealous, like back off, Gollum, buy your own). Too bad I already went to Mordor.
There was a Teddyland full of stuffed bears, some in lederhosen and dirndls. We bought a trip mascot who we named Johannes.
There were shops full of these gorgeous wooden clocks. I seriously debated dropping a few hundred euro on one, but I settled for a small cute mushroom one for just €10.
The place I bought that was the best shop of all… the Deutsches Weihnachtsmuseum aka German Christmas Museum. It was like Christmas paradise! It was a maze of rooms full of Christmas trees and decorations. I spent at least 50 euro on ornaments and the aforementioned clock. So happy.
We also retraced our steps from the previous night and went to see the view outside the walls as well as hopped into the church for a quick look before rushing back to get our car and drive down to Schwangau.
It was my turn to drive and my first time on the autobahn! I loved it! I went about 140 km per hour (roughly 90 mph) the whole way, the road was nice and clear, and unlike the lovely USA, drivers actually know to stay in the right lane if they aren't passing. Maps had told me getting there would take about 2 1/2 hours, we made it in 2.
Neuschwanstein Castle
The castle is located right near the border of Austria, so close that my phone welcomed me to the country even though I don't believe we actually crossed over. Driving in was incredible. All of these mountains just emerged around us out of the mist.
I had reserved tickets in advance for Neuschwanstein Castle. I'm not sure if you're required to because there was a long line in the ticketing office, but we jumped right to the front of the line for those with reservations, so I'd recommend booking ahead either way. I had booked us for the 4:25 time slot, and we had to pick up the tickets an hour beforehand. We were there at 3 which was good because we had decided to take the horse-drawn carriage to the top of the hill, and there was a line for that. (Alternatively, you can make the uphill walk which takes about a half hour, or you can wait in the even longer line for a bus.)
We managed to get on the carriage around 3:30 and nabbed a spot at the front. They dropped us off near the top of the hill where the restaurant is, then we still had a short walk up to the castle itself. It supposedly was the inspiration for Disney to create the Magic Kingdom.
The interior was so nice, but the tour enforced one of my least favorite rules ever, no photography. I did my best to snap a few shots when the guides were away or by randomly aiming my camera while it was hanging around my neck and hoping something came out. I met with little to no success.
We saw the golden ceilinged throne room with jeweled chandelier, the bedrooms with hidden doors, the ballroom, and the coolest- an actual grotto in the castle. It's like a whole rocky passage of cave with a small opening to this idyllic little room with plants and a fountain. The place was all elaborate and gorgeous.
Afterwards, we checked out the viewing balcony in the castle looking out over Schwangau.
That yellow castle down there is Hohenschwangau Castle, also an option to tour.
We made the trek further uphill to the picture perfect lookout point at the bridge overlooking the castle as well.
Bridge from castle.
Castle from bridge.
We walked back down afterwards to have dinner in town and then make the drive up to Munich, but it had been a perfect fairy tale day! If I can recommend only one thing in Germany, it would be this (like, two things technically, but whatever). Next up- Oktoberfest!